Madrid

12 & 13 November 2023

We spent yesterday and today in and around central Madrid. 

We started off well yesterday, going to Mass at a church we found not far from where we're staying. The church, Santo Cristo del Olivar, Christ of the Olives, is relatively modern.  It replaced the original church which was built on that site in 1649.

We arrived early for Mass and while we waited the priest came and spoke to us. He spoke very good English, explaining that it was American English though. He told us the church belongs Dominican friars. 

After Mass we found a fantastic panaderia and bought a few things for a picnic lunch. When we left the shop we noticed that people were wearing or carrying Spanish flags. No matter which way we walked we couldn't get away from the ever-building crowd. This was the start of a massive political protest gathering. It took some time to find a way through and make our escape. 

According to news reports at least 80,000 protesters gathered in a plaza near where we are staying. It seems that the rally remained peaceful but it certainly wasn't a great feeling being caught up in it.

After making our escape, and not knowing where the protesters were going, we decided to go to the huge park, Casa de Campo, on the Western side of the city. At more than 1,700 hectares it is considered to be Madrid's green lung. It is five times the size of New York's Central Park and seven times the size of London's Hyde Park.

As we didn't know how long the protest would last, and seeing the news reports that the gathering was in a plaza near our accommodation, we were in no hurry to leave. 

It was a beautiful day, a very pleasant 20°C and very sunny. Today was very similar. We spent much of this afternoon organising our packs and bags as we leave central Madrid tomorrow morning to stay at a motel near the airport which is several kilometres away to the north-east.

Our time in Europe has come to an end. Our pilgrim walks were wonderful. We loved every day, even the days that we had extreme heat, and later, those that tested us with rain and/or extreme winds. Every day was special. We have much to be thankful for. 

In the Church of Santo Cristo del Olivar:

The crucifix above the main altar was made by a Portuguese artist in 1649.

The beginnings of the protest gathering. It started as a trickle but very quickly escalated to a be massive crowd:

Photo taken from a news website. 

 

On our way to the park - the Catedral de Madrid. 

We came across a pair of unusual ducks. 

The entrance to Casa de Campo.

The trees were glorious in their autumn colours. 

Looking from the park to the Royal Palace, on the left, and the Cathedral. 

A few random street shots:

Segovia to Madrid

10 & 11 November 2023

We had a short, 28 minute, train trip down to Madrid yesterday. Of all our train journeys in France and Spain, this was our least interesting as, as well as being very short, most of it was through tunnels. 

Madrid has been an assault on our senses. It's streets are crowded. In some streets people are shoulder to shoulder, making walking very difficult. 

We've been reflecting on the quiet rural lanes and tracks of the Chemin du Piémont Pyrénéen, the empty green forests of Camino Baztan, the silence in the mists on Monte Faro on the Invierno, and the vast open land and skyscapes of the Caminos Teresianos - which we had all to ourselves. 

This afternoon we decided to walk to a park, Parque de el  Retiro, to find some peace and space. It covers 125 acres with more than 15,000 trees - but even there, in the central areas of the park, the crowds were massive. We enjoyed wandering the very many lanes though.

There is a huge police presence throughout the city, and the park, which is both reassuring and a little worrying. Before coming to Madrid we received emails from Travel Safe NZ warning of both pro Palestine and pro Israel protest marches, which the email stated have been peaceful but have the potential to become violent, as well as violent political protests. We have seen one pro Palestine march which was very peaceful. Police were much in evidence.

Plaza Mayor, Madrid:

Some random street scenes:

The two figures left moved every so often. 

Christmas decorations have been going up in the last few towns and cities we've visited but they won't be turned on until the end of the month. 

The Catedral de la Almudena:

Photos taken in Parque de el  Retiro:

The many lanes in the park were very quiet...

A poor photo as these birds - pica pica, the common Eurasian magpie - move so quickly. We've seen them before but never saw as many at one time as we saw in the park, and never as close as this.

All the main areas of the park were as busy as this one.

Prominent in the park is the 19th century Palacio de Cristol. Once a conservatory, it is now used for art exhibitions:

I liked the profile of the building on the left.

Segovia

9 November 2023

Today we went for a walk outside of the city. It felt so good to be walking again, and at one stage, admittedly not for long, we were on the Camino Madrid which goes to Sahagún. We both wished we could keep on walking. 

We left the city through a gate on the south side of the city wall and walked west eventually walking back into the city through Puerta de San Cebrián on the northern side. 

The walk took us to the Santuario de Nuestra Senñora de la Fuencisla, the Convento de San Juan de la Cruz - St John of the Cross - which has his tomb in a small side chapel, the Iglesia de la Vera Cruz, and the Monasterio de Santa Maria del Parral. 

Most the the walk was on tree-lined paths, alongside small rivers, and gave views to the city, Alcázar and the Cathedral every so often.  It was a pretty walk - but would have been even prettier if the sun had managed to break through the cloud cover.

We also revisited the aqueduct and walked to the far end of it on the south-east side of the city. It was an amazing piece of Roman engineering. Each block was cut to precision, and placed together without any mortar or other materials to keep the blocks in place. Each block weighed up to two tons.

Close up its possible to see grooves in the blocks which were made when they were being dragged into place. Also visible are dimple-like indentations where some sort of gripping tool must have been used.

According to Wikipedia: Its elevated section, with its complete arcade of 167 arches, is one of the best-preserved Roman aqueduct bridges and the foremost symbol of Segovia, as evidenced by its presence on the city's coat of arms. It's almost 17 kilometres long and is 28.1 metres at its highest. 

Finding our way out of the city via narrow streets. 

Initially we climbed up a path on a hill opposite the city wall.

We had fantastic views of the Cathedral. We tried to visit the Cathedral this afternoon but it was mayhem at the entrance. There was a paybooth with long queues but dozens upon dozens simply walked past - maybe large tour groups. We decided that we wouldn't find peace and quiet there.

It was good to be walking on a track again.

Part of the city wall. 

Alcázar Castle. 

The Convento de San Juan de la Cruz, St John of the Cross. 

The side chapel in the Convento de San Juan de la Cruz, St John of the Cross, with his tomb above the altar. 

One of the large paintings in this small side chapel. 

The main altar in the Convento de San Juan de la Cruz. 

A 1991 icon of St John of the Cross made by the Discalced Carmelite Nuns of Harissa, Lebanon.  

The yellow arrow of the Camino Madrid ...we would have liked to have walked on.

The Iglesia de la Vera Cruz.

Alcázar Castle 

Views across to the city.

The Monasterio de Santa Maria del Parral.

On our way back to the city.

The Gate of San Cebrián. 

And back into the city.

A selection of photos showing the construction of the aqueduct:

The highest section of the aqueduct is right in the city. 

It's possible to see the grooves and the dimple-like indentations here.

The water race on the top at the end of the aqueduct, out of the city. 

Coming back into the city.