4 September 2023
It was gorgeously cool this morning, almost bordering on too cool, but I'm not complaining as it was such a refreshing change. By late this afternoon it was back to being very hot.
We decided to make the most of the morning freshness and walked to see the Church of Santa Maria de Vizbayo - about two kilometres from our accommodation. Built at the end of the 10th century it is the oldest church Romanesque church in the Bierzo region. It has some Mozarabic art.
We didn't expect the church to be open but hadn't considered that it would be behind locked grilles - we did think we would have at least been able to walk around it, but no. Just as we had started walking away from the church, however, a man was walking up the road towards us and indicated for us to turn back. It turns out that he had the keys to the gate. We still couldn't see inside but least we were able to see the exterior.
The chap very proudly walked us around the church and was obviously explaining it's history and pointing out the various details on the church but of course we didn't understand most of what he was telling us. I was able to use Google Translate to let him know how much we appreciated him showing us his church, and that we understood it's age and significance. I also let him know that we were New Zealanders. He was most impressed that we had come from the other side of the world.
We returned to our area of Pamplona in time to go to Mass in the Basilica de la Encina. Then it was off to the supermarket to get our supplies for the next few days and a few things for a late picnic lunch.
Ponferrada is full of pilgrims. They start walking in, or through, Ponferrada from early morning to late afternoon. They look like well seasoned pilgrims - dusty boots or shoes, worn looking clothing, and arms and legs very tanned. This is very much in contrast to so many of the pilgrims we saw in Pamplona who looked squeaky clean and full of bounce as they made their way to the bus depot - obviously new pilgrims who were going to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port by bus to start their pilgrimage.
A knarly of olive tree near our accommodation.This is a side entrance. There were many graves on this side of the church and the chap was saying something about the mort - perhaps this door is/was used for burials.
The detail on this wee window and just below it is significant - it's a shame we couldn't understand all we were being told.
Our friend took us over to the side grilles and indicated that we should take a photo looking over to Ponferrada. He spoke of the castle (on the left) and the Basilica de la Encina (on the right).
I couldn't make out who this chap was but he looks quite pleased with himself.




















