Camino Baztan - Day 1

25 September 2023

Bayonne to Espelette - 23 kms

Today we set out on the second of the three chemin/camino routes we have planned - the Camino Baztan. 

Gerald Kelly, in his 2019 guide for the Baztan, states: The Baztan is a short route, approximately 110 kms, going from Bayonne to Pamplona. 

The Camino del Baztán starts in the south west of France in the city of Bayonne and winds its way almost due south through the French Basque Country into Spain and the Kingdom of Navarra, eventually joining the Camino Francés just before Pamplona. For much of its route it follows the valley of the river Baztán, from which it gets its name.

It is one of the Ways of Saint James used since the 12th century by pilgrims arriving on foot or by boat into Bayonne to cross the formidable barrier of the Pyrenees into Spain on their way to the shrine of the apostle in Santiago de Compostela.

We left our accommodation to start our camino at 7 am, over an hour before sunrise. We knew the day was going to be hot and wanted to make the most of the morning freshness - and it was beautifully fresh, so much so we both had a light fleece on and our rain jackets as well. 

The first 14 or so kilometres of today's walk was on a sealed cycle and pedestrian path along the side of the River Nive. We expected the path to take us through urban areas but once out of Bayonne it became very rural. The path was well used by cyclists, runners and walkers. 

The river pathway ended at Ustaritz, the only town along the way today. We had a short break there and bought some supplies from a boulangerie. After Ustaritz the route was on a very busy road for a few kilometres, the first time we had to dodge traffic. Not very pleasant. Later the route was on a minor roads and tracks. 

The camino goes through Souraïde/Zuraide but we had decided to have our first night in Espelette instead so we found our own way off the path using a track that ran through a wooded area to Espelette. After Ustaritz the day heated up to the high 20s and most of the walk was uphill so we appreciated the shade on this last stretch. 

Along our walk today we crossed paths several times with three French pilgrims. 

Espelette, a tourist town bustling with people, is famous for its chili peppers, piment d'Espelette - we walked past acres of peppers, their long rows laid out much like the vineyards in Marlborough. 

We completed our day with a wonderful Basque dinner - a bit of a surprise package as we couldn't read the menu. All part of the fun. 

This is our last night in France, tomorrow we cross the border into Spain. We arrived in Paris three weeks ago and have loved every moment of it. We will miss France. 

Leaving our accommodation in Bayonne. 

Walking along the bank of the River Nive. 

Our first sign for the Camino Baztan. 

Goodbye Bayonne, we loved our visit. 

The River Nive. 

A Pappy house - it was a hen house. At least Pappy would have lots of eggs.

A chap fishing in the River Nive. 

Rows of Espelette peppers. 

Coming into Ustaritz. 

At the boulangerie in Ustaritz. 

Ustaritz 

St Vincent Church, Ustaritz. 

St Vincent Church. 

Chateau Lota jaurega - next to St Vincent Church, Ustaritz. 

Finally, the path leaves the sealed roads behind. 

The French chap took this photo of us.

I was really feeling the sun and heat by now.

The closer we got to Espelette the more settlements we looked down on. 

The path goes on. 

...and on

The track into Espelette passed under chestnut trees.

A wee bridge we crossed over as we entered Espelette. 

Espelette is full of peppers - Piment d'Espelette.

Basque fabrics are so bright. 

The remains of an old castle in Espelette - Château des Barons d'Espeleta.

Espelette 

Espelette 

Bayonne - Rest day

 24 September 2023

We have thoroughly enjoyed our day in Bayonne. We started the day by going to Mass. It was celebrated by three priests, one was very elderly and needed help from one of the other priests all through Mass. 

After Mass one of the priests was outside chatting to people as they left so using my best French (which is very basic) I was able to explain where we were from and that we were on pilgrimage and asked for a blessing. He then wished us bon courage- he must have thought we would need it.

We spent the rest of the day wandering and sampling many of the foods and drinks at the many street cafés,  boulangeries and patisseries, and the food hall. 

In the afternoon we visited the St Jacques (St James) refuge to have our credentials stamped to mark the start of our Camino Baztan. Just as we got to the refuge the hospitalero/volunteer was about to show a other pilgrim the route out of Baztan and he told us to join them. 

We had an evening stroll, joining the very many others doing the same, saying our goodbyes to Bayonne. The day was very warm, 28°C in.the afternoon, and it was still quite warm for our last stroll around. Tomorrow is the first day of our Camino Baztan. 

The Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Sainte Marie 

Not all of the buildings were straight and true.

Reflections in the River Nive

A food hall

We had morning drinks and eats here 

The day started off cool, hence the jacket. It soon warmed up though.

The back of the cathedral 

Part of the old city walls.

The River Adour 

The botanical gardens 

Street art

A mix of architectural styles.

Part of the old wall again.

The cathedral spires could be seen from many directions. 

The old buildings were amazing. 

Each building in certain streets had these information plates showing the different occupants and/or businesses over the years. 

Another place we dined at.

The cathedral cloisters were open to the public in the afternoon. 

In the cloisters. 

The Bayonne pilgrim refuge - the hospitalero/volunteer in the doorway. 

The hospitalero, in the orange t-shirt, showing us the route out of Bayonne for the Camino Baztan. 

Another fascinating street.

We came across St Andre's Church on our wanders. 

In St Andre's Church. 

St Andre's Church. 

The evening light on cathedral.