Wednesday, September 13, 2023

Chemin du Piémont Pyrénéen - Day 3

September 13, 2023

Bruges to Buzy, 22+ km

As our host drove off last night she called out 'à sept heure' so we were up early and outside waiting for her at 7am - although the geese had started their noises at 4am and later the roasters joined in. 

We waited in Bruges for the bakery to open and bought a small breadstick and two beautiful looking gateaux then we were off.

This was at 8am and we didn't reach our accommodation at Buzy until 6pm. It was a long day - made longer than the 22 kms we had expected by us getting lost in the hills, or if not exactly lost, then a bit confused which caused us to walk more than we needed to perhaps. As well as following the path markings we're using GPS tracks which we downloaded to Organic Maps. Usually we're right on track, literally, but in a couple of places the markings and the map tracks didn't make sense. 

The path was a mix of farm and bush tracks with long stretches of asphalt. We passed through only two small settlements, Mifaget and Sainte-Colombe - neither of which had any services, apart from there being potable water in Sainte-Colombe. I was running low on water by then so it was a great relief. We had a lunch break in Sainte-Colombe. 

The cool of the morning had worn off very quickly and it was a hot and humid day - especially tiring as the day was made up of seemingly endless ascents and descents - the walk up to Sainte-Colome was a particularly long accent. The farmland was incredibly beautiful though.

We passed another couple walking in the opposite direction. They were Canadians from Quebec and had very limited English, much like my French. 

When we walked the Camino Francés we used to joke that the last 2km of each day were 10km long and it seemed the same today - especially as we walked past signs saying 2km to Buzy at least three times.

Our accommodation is in a B&B style place where the host cooked our meal and ate with us. Also staying here are a French couple and an English chap - none of whom are pilgrims. The meal was fantastic, just what we needed after a long day. 

Bruges around 7.30am

Waiting for the bakery to open. It said 7.30 but it was nearer 8 before it opened. 

It turned out that the wait was for the baked goods to be delivered. 

Then we were out in the countryside again. 

W loved the hills in the distance. 



The church in Mifaget. 



It's not often that we have seen cows in sheds.



Our morning tea break - gateaux from the bakery and apples from our farm stay, plus water. What more could you want.

The house and farm outbuildings we saw today were substantial, more monied looking. 



Our welcoming committee as we entered Sainte-Colombe. 

A most welcome and needed find - potable water. 

Sainte-Colombe 

The church of Sainte-Colombe 



The Church of Sainte-Colombe 

Leaving Sainte-Colombe 

With the ferns this could have been anywhere in New Zealand. 





The Dolman of Buzy. 

A snake?
The walk goes on...

Finally entering Buzy

Our accommodation for the night. 

The view from our room. 

These last three are out of order. Leaving Bruges loaded with the petit pain and a box containing our two gateaux. 

Caught eating a walnut. Acorns, chestnuts, hazelnuts and walnuts have been all along our walk - as have figs.

Lunch in Sainte-Colombe. 


Tuesday, September 12, 2023

Chemin du Piémont Pyrénéen - Day 2

September 12, 2023 

Lestelle-Betharram to Bruges , 14km

In spite of the lack of sleep because of the storm, we were up and organized quite early as breakfast was at 7.10. After thanking Père Laurent for his hospitality, we were on our way. 

The day was cooler which made for very pleasant walking and the countryside we walked through was beautiful. Filip, the Belgium pilgrim walked a couple of short stretches with us. He told us about the three different sections of Belgium, each with their own language - French, Dutch and German. 

Jeff and I stopped at Asson for a drink and a Basque gateau - very tasty. Then we were on our way to Bruges, our stop for the day - we were there by midday. 

We had arranged with the owner of the restaurant in Bruges to stay in her country house which she allows pilgrims to stay in. We went straight to her restaurant and conversation was interesting as she didn't speak English and I had to use my limited (very poor) French. She laughed a lot. After a fantastic steak meal she took us out to the house, about 3 kms from Bruges.

The house was rather ramshackle but was great to be able to stay there. We managed to tell her that we had our own supplies for dinner as she was prepared to run around on us so we could eat at the restaurant again. She must have been concerned for us though as around 8pm she returned with two very large pieces of pizza and a hunk of crusty bread for our breakfast - to go with butter and jam in the fridge. 

Then things got interesting as she indicated she wanted us to go outside with her and she picked apples, figs and gathered walnuts and said mangez, mangez. What really surprised us she opened a cage which housed quails and gathered half a dozen or so eggs which she took back into the house and cooked then instructed us to eat them. 

Frustrating! The photos have uploaded in reverse order so start at the bottom and scroll up.

Our host putting her hens and geese to bed and giving them a feed.


Jeff at 'our' house - or r host doesn't live there.

The church doorway.

Arriving in Bruges - St Martin's Church. 

Filip on his way. We won't see him again as he's walking longer stages than us.


One way to Bruges. 

Our morning tea break in Asson.

The church in Asson.


One the way to Asson. Great entrance gates Clare. 





The views out to the Pyrenees were stunning. 



Looking back down on Lestelle-Betharram from our path out of town. 

One of the images. 

The first of the amazing structure which house images of the Stations of the Cross. 

A last look at the view from our window. 

Breaksfast time - Père Laurent (standing), Filip in the orange shirt, and Fred and Debbie, the Americans.