Chemin du Piémont Pyrénéen - day 4

September 14, 2023

Buzy to Oloron-Sainte-Marie, 21 km

Today was an easy day in so many ways. Today's path took us through farmland initially then through forests and as we neared Oloron-Sainte-Marie we followed the River Gave again through the Forest of Oloron. Most of the walk was level apart from a bit of a descent down to the river and a long ascent when we were approaching Oloron-Sainte-Marie. 

The weather made for an easier day too as it was so much cooler. When we set out it was quite cool and we walked in a mist. The mist cleared but we still had cloud cover until near the end of the walk when the sun came out. 

We left Buzy before 8am and after an easy 5km walk we reached the small village of Ogeu-les-Bains where we found a lovely wee bar/cafe. We stopped for a chocolat chaud, hot chocolate, and asked for a cheese and salad baguette to take away for our lunch - we sat in the forest enjoyed it later on in the walk.

We encountered a French couple early on in the forest section, they were walking in the opposite direction, going from Roncesvalles to Lourdes. They warned us that the path on the descent down to river had badly washed out during the same storm we experienced when we were in Lestelle-Betharram. Sure enough, that section was badly washed away and muddy.

After the peacefulness of our farm and forest walk Oloron-Sainte-Marie was a bit of a shock. People and traffic everywhere. We're staying here for two nights which is just as well as I found that I had developed a massive blister on one of my toes. I was shocked to see it as I had no sensation of one forming. Hopefully, tomorrow I can sort out what I need to do about it. 

Breakfast at our accommodation in Buzy. We were the only ones eating at 7am.

 

Leaving Buzy.

A house in Buzy. I love all the different styles. 

Most dogs bark quite viciously as we pass. Thank goodness they've all been behind fences so far.

Out on the path again. 

We've seen many fantastic stacks of forewood. The wood is cut into quite long lengths - we have noticed that the fireplaces in the places we've stayed in are wide.

This doesn't really capture how misty it was. 

The bar/cafe in Ogeu-les-Bains 

In Ogeu-les-Bains 

Leaving Ogeu-les-Bains. 

A small section of the storm-damaged track - there was much worse to come.

Resting 

The River Gave 

The walk goes on. 

We met some friendly locals.

Not far now.

Entering Oloron-Sainte-Marie. 

Our accommodation - we have a rumpity but perfectly usable room here.

Oloron-Sainte-Marie. 

Chemin du Piémont Pyrénéen - Day 3

September 13, 2023

Bruges to Buzy, 22+ km

As our host drove off last night she called out 'à sept heure' so we were up early and outside waiting for her at 7am - although the geese had started their noises at 4am and later the roasters joined in. 

We waited in Bruges for the bakery to open and bought a small breadstick and two beautiful looking gateaux then we were off.

This was at 8am and we didn't reach our accommodation at Buzy until 6pm. It was a long day - made longer than the 22 kms we had expected by us getting lost in the hills, or if not exactly lost, then a bit confused which caused us to walk more than we needed to perhaps. As well as following the path markings we're using GPS tracks which we downloaded to Organic Maps. Usually we're right on track, literally, but in a couple of places the markings and the map tracks didn't make sense. 

The path was a mix of farm and bush tracks with long stretches of asphalt. We passed through only two small settlements, Mifaget and Sainte-Colombe - neither of which had any services, apart from there being potable water in Sainte-Colombe. I was running low on water by then so it was a great relief. We had a lunch break in Sainte-Colombe. 

The cool of the morning had worn off very quickly and it was a hot and humid day - especially tiring as the day was made up of seemingly endless ascents and descents - the walk up to Sainte-Colome was a particularly long accent. The farmland was incredibly beautiful though.

We passed another couple walking in the opposite direction. They were Canadians from Quebec and had very limited English, much like my French. 

When we walked the Camino Francés we used to joke that the last 2km of each day were 10km long and it seemed the same today - especially as we walked past signs saying 2km to Buzy at least three times.

Our accommodation is in a B&B style place where the host cooked our meal and ate with us. Also staying here are a French couple and an English chap - none of whom are pilgrims. The meal was fantastic, just what we needed after a long day. 

Bruges around 7.30am

Waiting for the bakery to open. It said 7.30 but it was nearer 8 before it opened. 

It turned out that the wait was for the baked goods to be delivered. 

Then we were out in the countryside again. 

W loved the hills in the distance. 

The church in Mifaget. 

It's not often that we have seen cows in sheds.

Our morning tea break - gateaux from the bakery and apples from our farm stay, plus water. What more could you want.

The house and farm outbuildings we saw today were substantial, more monied looking. 

Our welcoming committee as we entered Sainte-Colombe. 

A most welcome and needed find - potable water. 

Sainte-Colombe 

The church of Sainte-Colombe 

The Church of Sainte-Colombe 

Leaving Sainte-Colombe 

With the ferns this could have been anywhere in New Zealand. 

The Dolman of Buzy. 

A snake?

The walk goes on...

Finally entering Buzy

Our accommodation for the night. 

The view from our room. 

These last three are out of order. Leaving Bruges loaded with the petit pain and a box containing our two gateaux. 

Caught eating a walnut. Acorns, chestnuts, hazelnuts and walnuts have been all along our walk - as have figs.

Lunch in Sainte-Colombe.