Kiwi Pilgrims

29 September 2023

Venta San Blas to Olagüe - 17 kms

Last night at Venta San Blas was so good. We all had dinner together - The French/Canadian trio, the French/Basque trio and us. Dinner started late and we didn't get to bed until after 11 pm which was very late for us.

There was so much laughter and fun. Carlos speaking in Basque to Marie-Claire, the Basque pilgrim, and Spanish to the rest of us! He kept borrowing my phone and glasses to use Google Translate to help.

We got off this morning to a latish start as Carlos baked bread to make us a bocadillo to take away. Then we were off.

The path took us straight up from around 700m at Venta San Blas to 950m, it dropped down a 100 or so metres before climbing to nearly a 1000m. Most of that way was through Baztan forests. It was slow going, not because it was difficult but because it was so beautiful. We kept stopping to just enjoy the moment.

We walked out of the forest at one stage for quite a section which gave us views out over hills and distant mountain peaks. This is the most westerly part of the Pyrenees. It wasn't long before we were back in the forest.

About 5 kms from the end of the day's walk we came to the village of Lantz then it was just a matter of walking on to Olagüe - partly along the roadside and partly on tracks through rough farmland. Just like every afternoon, it was incredibly hot, especially after the cool of the forest's. We were very pleased to get to the albergue.

Maria, the hospitalera, was lovely, and the albergue was great in spite of having very small, almost inadequate bathroom area. We were fortunate to be the first to arrive at the albergue and managed to shower and do our daily wash - the laundry area was great - before any others arrived.

Once again, we had a good bunch there. The French/Basque trio and four Spanish pilgrims who had been with us at the albergue in Urdax. We had already said goodbye to the three French/Canadian men as they all ended their camino in Lantz.

We had to provide our own dinner which we carried from Elizondo. There was a small panaderia in village which opened for an hour. We bought yoghurt for breakfast, to go with bananas we also bought in Elizondo.

We had a special treat for part of our dinner, a gift from the French/Basque trio - Marie-Claire, Jacques and Françoise. They were very excited when they arrived at the albergue and couldn't wait to show us what they had gathered in the forest - ceps bolet, edible mushrooms which they said were very special, expensive to buy. They showed us the process of preparing them to cook then later shared some of their meal with us. It was a fabulous treat.

The gathering of pilgrims at Venta San Blas: (l-r) Guyon, Canadian; Françoise, Basque; Michel, French; Gérard, French; Jeff; Jacques, French: me; Marie-Claire, Basque. We had great fun - the mix of languages didn't matter but added to the fun.

Our host and chef, Carlos, was our photographer. He stood on a chair to take the group photo and I quickly took this snap of him.

Leaving our accommodation at Venta San Blas

And straight into the forest.

Crocus were scattered throughout the forest.

A couple of pilgrims.

Horses,with bells around their necks, roamed freely in the forest.

Out in the clear we looked out to hills and more hills.

These jagged stones are very ancient markers - for pilgrims and travellers alike.

The Ermita de Santiago way up in the hills.

Santiago - St James - in the Ermita.

We had a break at the Ermita. This is the bocadillo that Carlos made for us to eat along our way. He made the bread and filled it with a tortilla of eggs and chorizo. It was so huge that it later became my lunch.

Guyon, Gérard and Michel passed us while we had our break. They couldn't stay long as they were in a hurry to get to Lantz to catch a bus to Pamplona. They were ending their Camino Baztan today.

Looking back at the Ermita de Santiago.

Our lunch stop. It was so peaceful.

Then down we went towards Lantz.

Walking into Lantz.

Lantz

We found the French/Canadian trio still in Lantz. They said they got lost in the forest and had missed their bus. When we found them they were waiting for a taxi.

On our way from Lantz

And back on the path.

The berries Carlos used to make the Baztan alcoholic drink. Are they sloe berries?

Finally walking in to Olagüe. The temperature was in the high 20s by then - as it has been every afternoon.

The church in Olagüe - photo from the albergue window.

The marvellous ceps bolet.

Jacques and Marie-Claire preparing them to cook later.

The panederia in Olagüe. It looked like a private home - their house was upstairs.

The panaderia entrance.

Half of the mushrooms went into this omlete and the other half was added to cooked pasta, along with olive oil and salt. We were so blessed to have been able to share these beautiful dishes.

28 September 2023

Elizondo to Venta San Blas - 18 kms

Wow, we're in a fabulous place tonight. We're in an accommodation up in the hills with nothing else around.

Carlos and his wife Xefe are so welcoming and friendly. The French/Canadian trio are staying here tonight also. Xefe is doing all our washing and Carlos will cook our dinner. They are like mother and father to us all ...but they're around our age or younger. Carlos is so funny - we're using Google Translate to talk to each other. He said they are Basque, not Spanish. Right now he has given us a Basque alcoholic drink to try. It's called patxarán and is made with endrina, as far as we can make out they are sloe berries. Carlos initially gave us some commercially produced patxarán then some he made himself. Es muy bueno.

It's been a fabulous day altogether. We were expecting a hard day climbing but for three quarters of the walk there we had as many descents as ascents, the camino only started climbing for the last 3 or 4 kilometres and even then only the last kilometre or so was steep, especially the last 100 metres. We were expecting to reach around 900m but we're only at 715m.

The path took us on roadsides and onto tracks. We walked through forests and villages. We crossed paths with the French/Canadian trio several times. We stopped together for a midmorning break.

After a foggy fresh start it got to around 26°C today and was very sunny but for much of the time we were in shade.

The French/Basque trio have just arrived. Our Camino family will be together again tonight.

I have added the photos for day 2 and will add photos to day 3 when I can.

Leaving Elizondo around 7.30 this morning.

The Baztan River in Elizondo.

And out into the fog.

A small settlement before Ziga.

Near Ziga

Jeff with the French/Canadian trio - Guyon, the Canadian on the left, Gérard, Jeff and Michel near Ziga. They are great fun.

On our way again.

Ziga

And out into the country again. Most of the signs are in Basque only.

Coming into Berroeta.

Many of the houses have dried thistles on the door. In Baztan mythology the thistle protects their homes from danger from the big creature who lives in the Baztan Forests.