Ponferrada - Rest day

4 September 2023

It was gorgeously cool this morning, almost bordering on too cool, but I'm not complaining as it was such a refreshing change. By late this afternoon it was back to being very hot.

We decided to make the most of the morning freshness and walked to see the Church of Santa Maria de Vizbayo - about two kilometres from our accommodation. Built at the end of the 10th century it is the oldest church Romanesque church in the Bierzo region. It has some Mozarabic art. 

We didn't expect the church to be open but hadn't considered that it would be behind locked grilles - we did think we would have at least been able to walk around it, but no. Just as we had started walking away from the church, however, a man was walking up the road towards us and indicated for us to turn back. It turns out that he had the keys to the gate. We still couldn't see inside but least we were able to see the exterior. 

The chap very proudly walked us around the church and was obviously explaining it's history and pointing out the various details on the church but of course we didn't understand most of what he was telling us. I was able to use Google Translate to let him know how much we appreciated him showing us his church, and that we understood it's age and significance. I also let him know that we were New Zealanders. He was most impressed that we had come from the other side of the world. 

We returned to our area of Pamplona in time to go to Mass in the Basilica de la Encina. Then it was off to the supermarket to get our supplies for the next few days and a few things for a late picnic lunch. 

Ponferrada is full of pilgrims. They start walking in, or through, Ponferrada from early morning to late afternoon. They look like well seasoned pilgrims - dusty boots or shoes, worn looking clothing, and arms and legs very tanned. This is very much in contrast to so many of the pilgrims we saw in Pamplona who looked squeaky clean and full of bounce as they made their way to the bus depot - obviously new pilgrims who were going to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port by bus to start their pilgrimage. 

A knarly of olive tree near our accommodation. 

On our way to the Church of Santa Maria de Vizbayo. 

Santa Maria de Vizbayo 

Our camino angel who proudly telling about his church. 

 

We think our friendly guide was telling us that iron was causing the colouration. 

This is a side entrance. There were many graves on this side of the church and the chap was saying something about the mort - perhaps this door is/was used for burials.

The detail on this wee window and just below it is significant - it's a shame we couldn't understand all we were being told.

Our friendly guide. 

Our friend took us over to the side grilles and indicated that we should take a photo looking over to Ponferrada. He spoke of the castle (on the left) and the Basilica de la Encina (on the right).

He also made it known that these olive trees in the Church grounds produce fantastic olives.

The leaves on.the grapevines are just starting to change colour.

A good crop of kiwifruit in a small front garden. 

Wandering through some of the Ponferrada streets. 

Detail on a building. 

Jeff at our window

A view from our window. 

Some more Ponferrada streets. 

I couldn't make out who this chap was but he looks quite pleased with himself. 

Ponferrada - Rest day

3 October 2023

Today has been a day of housekeeping: finding a lavandería (laundrette) and getting everything washed and dried; making sure we have cash to go forward with; contacting various accommodation places for the next few days on the Camino Invierno; sorting out what supplies we'll have to carry with us until we're in the next town with a supermarket; going to Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicholás de Flue to get new creditentials, and sussing out the start of the Invierno for when we set off on Thursday. 

It's been yet another hot day and it looks as though the temperatures will be the same or higher for the next few days at least.

Some photos taken while walking around Ponferrada:

The Basilica de la Encina. The word Encina translate as Holm Oak - they used to cover the whole area. The 16th century Basilica was given the name of Encina as a vision of the Virgen Mary appeared in one of the oaks.

A Knights Templar cross, with the Alpha and Omega, on the Basílica wall.

The entrance 

The alter in the Basílica.

The detail throughout the church was incredible. 

In contrast to the Basílica, these buildings are next-door to it.

La Torre del Reloj, the 16th century clock tower.

The Ponferrada town hall.

A few snaps of different streets. 

And the Templar Castle again. 

Saint James on the albergue wall.

The cafés spill out onto the plazas and streets. 

Pamplona to Ponferrada

2 October 2023

Today we said goodbye to Pamplona and we are now in Ponferrada. We had a very interesting five and a half hour train trip. It was interesting to see the landscape as we travelled through the different regions, especially as we had walked from Pamplona to Ponferrada when walking the Camino Francés in 2019. 

The train went more or less directly west from Pamplona, taking us way north of the Camino Francés route but then went south-west to Burgos. From there it continued southwest to Palencia, almost in to the heart of the meseta - with brown fields stretching for miles each side -  then we travelled northwest to Sahagun. From there it more or less followed the Camino Francés route to Astorga before snaking its way through high country - with views out to hills beyond hills with lines of giant wind turbines -  passing through many tunnels, to Ponferrada. 

Before we left Pamplona Jeff read, on information that had been emailed to us, that Spanish rail company, Renfe, prides itself on running strictly on schedule. The email said though, that if a trip was delayed for more than 15 minutes 50٪ of the cost of the fare would be refunded, and if delayed more than 30 minutes the full fare would be refunded - and our trip was delayed by 35 minutes late so we can now apply for a full refund. 

It's a warm evening here in Ponferrada and people, including ourselves, are dining out on the pavements, or strolling by. 

A statue of the running of the bulls during San Fermin, Pamplona. 

I was intrigued with the buildings on Pamplona - in which order were they built, how do all the different roof heights work together without having any internal leaks etc.

I love the different styles side by side. 

The plaza was so empty in the morning. 

On our way to the railway station I spotted what looked like pain aux raisins and just had to buy a couple as I had missed them since leaving France. 

So many goodies. Note the green Oparara Wilderness Trail bag Nathan & Bridie. 

We walked past the Church of San Lorenzo enroute to the station. 

...and we popped in for a visit. 

Still on our way to the train station - it was a two kilometre walk.

We found a green area and bench seats so decided we wouldn't wait any longer to eat our Spanish caracola, their equivalent of pain aux raisins, but what a disappointment. They weren't at all like their beautiful French cousins!

Now in Ponferrada! We enjoyed the whole trip so much.

This chap was our camino angel of the day - he pointed out the correct road to take from the station into the area of Pamplona where we're staying. I later noticed a scallop shell in his tattoo. 

On our way to our accommodation. 

Crossing the Rio Sil.

On our way to our accommodation we walked past the Castillo de los Templarios - the 13th century Knights Templar Castle.

A view from our room - we look out onto the castle.