10 October 2023
Soldón to Quiroga - 8 kms
We gave ourselves an easy day today, walking just 8 kms. It was a lovely walk; we didn't set out very early and took our time. It was a cool fresh morning with a fairly strong blustery wind which we both appreciated after the hot still days we have had - by the afternoon though the temperature was 30°C again.
The walk was pleasant with views out to hills and down to the Rio Sil. We are now fully in wine country so saw many areas in grapes but they are small blocks, nothing like the huge vineyards that we see in New Zealand.
We walked through a couple of small settlements. In one were the crumbling remains of a 12th century castle, or the tower of one. It was built by the order of Saint John of Jerusalem.
One of the first shops we saw in Quiroga was a pasteleria y panederia and, of course, we couldn't walk on without buying something. We settled on caracola, the Spanish equivalent of pain aux raisins, as they looked almost like their French cousins, and a couple of croissants. These caracola weren't as good as pain aux raisins but far nicer than the ones we bought in Pamplona.
A customer in the shop heard us speaking to each other and spoke to us in English. She asked if we were from England or America. I commented on her wonderful English and she said she was self taught using TV and newspapers. She was lovely took over our ordering, translating for us.
As we walked up the main street in Quiroga we noticed several stalls being set up with huge pots on gas cookers. They looked the same and we no idea what they were for. Further up the street we saw one of stalls was more organised and was selling something on a wooden platter so went to investigate. They were selling pulpo - octopus - so of course we had to sample some.
While we were sitting eating our pulpo the English speaking lady we had met in the pasteleria saw us and came and spoke to us again. She explained that the lady we had bought our pulpo from is very good and sells in Quiroga twice a month. Her stall certainly was very popular with many of her customers buying pulpo to take home.
We're in a hostel in Quiroga and our room is above a busy tapas bar and we can hear the chatter from all the customers. The Spanish speak loud and fast, often sounding quite annoyed but then break in to a laugh.
Crossing the bridge over the Rio Soldón, setting out for Quiroga.
Many of the areas of grapes look quite untidy.
The road, and our camino path, goes under this house.
One of the little settlements we passed through today.
And another tiny settlement. What surprises us is that in these settlements many, or most, of houses are derelict but amongst them are well kept houses, obviously occupied.
The Church of Saint Anton Abad.
A length of the path was solid rock...
...and we noticed that it had well-worn track marks showing that the path is very old. People, and their carts, have travelled over it for many years.
Looking back at the 12th century tower again - many old houses are nestled around it.
Nearing Quiroga
A pilgrim in Quiroga
Fantastic street art of a peregrina - a pilgrim.
What do I try first - the caracola or the croissant?
The pulpo seller preparing our order.
The final presentation. Very tasty with rock salt, picante pepper and olive oil.
