Camino Invierno - Day 8

12 October 2023

A Labrada to Monforte de Lemos - 21 kms

We throughly enjoyed today. We retraced our way back to the camino from our pensíon and immediately started to climb up out of the Lor Valley reaching quite a height. 

We soon left the pine forest behind and from then on the camino path was through farmland. We went through a couple of small settlements before descending down to A Pobra de Brollón, the only town of the day before arriving in Monforte de Lemos. 

Just as we entered A Pobra de Brollón we came across a panederia van selling bread to locals at their doorsteps. We quickly asked if we could buy a loaf which he was very happy to sell us. We bought a long bread stick, still warm from the oven. We then found a bar and stopped for a colacao. We were very surprised to come across both as today is the National Day of Spain and we expected everything to be shut.

From A Pobra de Brolón we had another climb and then descended, still through farmland, to Monforte de Lemos to where we're staying in the Parador de Monforte de Lemos, a former 15th century monastery which was built to replace the 10th monastery which was destroyed during the war of religions.

We have a junior suite which is fantastic, pure luxury. If this is a junior suite I wonder what the others are like. We decided to have a bit of fun and treat ourselves. 

The Paradors are state-run hotels, 97 in total, consisting of castles, monasteries, fortresses, manor houses, palaces as well as modern buildings in spectacular nature settings.

The hilltop of Monforte was a Roman fortress which was destroyed by the Moors in the 8th century. It was restarted by the Benedictines in the 9th century. All that remains of the original fortress is a tower and some of the fortress walls. 

Note: I have added yesterday's photos. 

Leaving our pensíon 

And immediately into a climb 

Still climbing 

Out of the forest area 

A small church along our way 

Coming into A Pobra de Brollón 

Buying our bread straight from the baker

A Pobra de Brollón 

We have seen very little stock - these sheep and later a few cows.

Jeff getting apples for our lunch. 

A small church where we stopped for our lunch break. 

A very old cross in front of the church. 

A friendly character we met along the way. 

...he enjoyed some of the roadside apples too.

Our first view of the Parador and fortress tower. We still had another 2 hours of walking.

It was quite hot by now, 31°C.

Decision time - which way to go to get to the Parador 

Getting closer 

Looking up to the fortress 

Finally at the Parador 

About to check-in at the Parador 

The lounge in our suite.

A view from our room. 

Another view from our room. 

Inside the Parador 

A layout of the fortress as it was. 

In front of the tower and the Parador. The tower is just over 30 m.

Inside the tower 

A view of the Parador from the top of the tower.

Looking down on the inner courtyard from our 2nd floor.

 

The inner courtyard of the Parador. 

The dining room 

Looking down on the courtyard - people enjoying the warm evening.

A night view from our room. 

Camino Invierno - Day 7

11 October 2023

Quiroga to A Labrada - 17 kms

We said goodbye to the Rio Sil and the Sil Valley today when the camino path took us out of the valley and up into the hills and tonight we're staying in a pensíon in a tiny settlement on the edge of the Rio Lor. 

Once away from Quiroga all of today's walk was on quiet roads. The first 5 kilometres or so were sealed then were mostly unsealed from there. 

The greater part of the walk was through pine forests, or where the trees had been cleared. After some time we realised that the land had been cleared due to what must have been massive forest fires, leaving charred trees and/or stumps. 

Although most of the walk was through forest areas there were several lovely tree-lined sections and there was a much appreciated breeze so the day didn't get too hot at all.

Near the top of the today's climb we had a lunch stop at the Capella dos Remedios, a small 17th chapel. Like most the churches we have seen in Spain, it was locked but we were able

 to see inside and it was beautiful. 

We walked through just one small settlement, O Carbalo de Lor, on our descent down to where we are now. 

It was 30 ° in the midafternoon when we arrived at our stop for the day, but cooled quite quickly as the evening approached. When we set out from Quiroga this morning it was only 13°.

We set our from Quiroga a bit too early. Sunrise isn't until 8.40 and, initially, it was a bit too dark for walking. 

The camino path took us our of Quiroga via a nearby town rather than out along the main road.

Looking back at Quiroga when crossing the Rio Sil. It wasn't long before we left the Sil Valley behind. 

Although most of today's walk was on roads - both sealed and unsealed - this was the only vehicle we saw. It was puttering up the hill.so slowly that it took a long time to pass me. 

Looking out to the hills 

It was s long steady climb up. 

Bare forestry land.

Some stands of trees survived what obviously was a massive forest fire.

At times there patches of purple haze under the trees.

The shaded tree-lined sections were wonderful. 

The small 17th century chapel, Capella dos Remedios, where we stopped for our lunch break. Our packs are at the front. 

Peeping in through the grilles allowed a view of it's interior. 

I added our names in the pilgrim book at the chapel. 

Entering O Carbalo de Lor

Coming into A Ponte Barxa where we left the camino to walk to our pensíon - about 400m away.

The medieval bridge, A Ponte, over the Rio Lor. An information board stated that it was most likely to have been built at the end of the 14th century or the beginning of the 15th. The earliest mention of it though was in a 1598 publication a map of the Kingdom of Galicia.

Jeff standing on the bridge...

...and an image of the King of Galicia riding over it in exactly the same place. 

Walking to our pensíon...

...along the banks of the Rio Lor.

Our pensíon for the night. We had a wonderful stay there.