Camino Invierno - Day 10

14 September 2023

Vilariño to Chantada - 16 kms

We are disputing how many kilometres we walked today. Guides and the mojones say 16 kms but we think we could add another 10 kms for the effort that was required 😂

It's been a fantastic day, we've thoroughly enjoyed it in spite of the effort needed.

After a wet night we woke to a fine but foggy morning. We rejoined the camino route from our stay at Vilariño and had road walking until we reached Diomondi when the camino path took us on a short, distance-wise, but very steep rocky track down to the settlement of Belesar. John Brierley, in his guide, stated that it is a 610m descent. 

Belesar, which straddles the Rio Miño,  is incredibly picturesque. The fog hadn't quite cleared so we can only imagine how it would look on sunny day. 

We had a brief snack stop at Belesar before continuing on our way. The path from Belesar went up ...and up. It zigzagged it's way to the top, partly on road but mostly on tracks which intersected the road. Much of the track sections were rocky, and just as we started the climb the sky cleared and it became sunny and hot. 

Brierley said that the climb up from Belesar is the steepest and most spectacular climb of the Camino Invierno. An information board in Belesar stated that the Invierno route was used by the Romans well before medieval pilgrims began using it, and some of the stones are from the Roman times.

There were no services all day. Diomondi, or what we saw of it, consisted of a 12th century church, San Palo de Diomondi, which has an albergue attached, and we didn't see any shops in Belesar either. 

After our climb up from Belesar we stopped at Lincora, opposite the church of San Pedro de Lincora, for a very late lunch break before walking into Chantada. 

Chantada is 105 kilometres from Santiago de Compostela making it a starting point for anyone wanted to walk the last 100 kilometres on the Camino Invierno which would enable them to receive a Compostela. 

Up until now we've been getting one stamp a day in our credentials, but from here we need to get two a day to prove that we have walked the last 100 to Santiago de Compostela. 

We're not sure how we'll manage to get two stamps a day as it has been difficult at times to even get one.

It was quite foggy when we set off.

The road was very quiet, very little traffic. 

Cows were being moved along the road. We've seen hardly any cows, or sheep, in paddocks. We've seen no sign of milking sheds. The paddocks are usually bare although the grass isn't long.

This is the first horreo, Galician grain store, that we've seen. 

12th century Romanesque San Paio de Diomondi Church. 

The stone carvings showing animals and mystical creatures are very well preserved.

A small settlement we walked through 

We found that it was impossible to capture the gradient of the descent and ascent we had today. This is on the way down to Belesar. The path was way steeper than this shot shows. 

Coming down to Belesar 

Belesar straddles the Rio Miño 

And then we had the climb up out of Belesar 

The slopes above the Rio Miño were terraced, using low stone walls, and were planted in grapes and fruit trees.

Another horreo 

A friendly character on our way up.

Finally at the top in Lincora where we had our late lunch stop - opposite the Church of San Pedro de Lincora.

Church of San Pedro de Lincora.

On the outskirts of Chantada 

In Chantada 

The plantings in Chantada are fantastic. 

The Church of Santa Mariña, Chantada. 

Street art.

Camino Invierno - Day 9

13 October 2023

Monforte de Lemos to Vilariño - 16 kms

This morning we were greeted with rain, the first rain we've had. It wasn't heavy rain though, just light drizzle. 

We had an amazing breakfast at the Parador and, even better, it was free as first time guests at a Parador since signing up as Amigos de Paradores - Friends of Paradors. 

When we stepped out of the Parador's doors we were hit by a strong wet wind. Out came our brand new blue ponchos and off we went. 

The drizzle lasted about 4 hours then the sun almost made an appearance but was quickly hidden by cloud. Walking was quite pleasant as we didn't have the heat we had been having and once the drizzle stopped there was a lovely breeze. 

Today's walk was mostly uphill with just a small dip now and then. The route was on sealed roads for several kilometres before changing to tree-lined paths.

We passed through several small farming communities and a couple of little settlements but that was all, there weren't any towns. We had one short break only.

Tonight we're off route a wee way, staying in a small but busy bar restaurant with accommodation. It's in the edge of the very small settlement Fion, surrounded by farms. 

They are used to pilgrims here as we were told that our dinner will be early at 8pm, well before their usual serving time - only they forgot about us and we didn't get to eat until after 9pm, much too late.

Leaving the Parador sporting our fabulous ponchos.

On our way down to the town of Monforte de Lemos. 

Monforte de Lemos roof tops. 

We walked through Porta da Alcazaba, a 13th century gateway in the fortress walls. 

In Monforte de Lemos 

We walked out of Monforte de Lemos over Ponte Vella, a medieval bridge crossing the Rio Cabe. 

The Rio Cabe

Out into the country 

The route was all through farming country. 

The sun made a brief appearance

...and the ponchos came off.

We had our brief snack stop here, we didn't have lunch.

Nearly at the end of today's walk. 

Our stop for the night.

Torre Vilariño - a small but busy bar and restaurant. It was full of customers when we arrived at 3.20. We had been walking for six hours.