Camino Invierno - Day 14

18 October 2023

Lalin to Salleda - 16 kms

We've had a lovely day. The walk out of Lalin was alongside a small stream for several kilometres and before long we were north of A Laxe. This is where the Camino Invierno joins with the Camino Sanabrés which starts east and south of the Invierno. 

Many pilgrims who walk the Via de la Plata from Seville finish on the Sanabrés, so with the three camino routes coming together we can expect to see many more pilgrims now. Already, today, we've seen four - it's been at least ten days since we saw others walking. 

The heavy rain that had been forecast didn't arrive but we did need to wear our ponchos, or have them draped over our packs for when needed, as quick showers would flick over every so often. 

Much of the route today was along tree-lined paths. The highlights were the bridge, Ponte de Taboada, built in 912, and the nearby 12th century Church of Santiago. 

Leaving Lalin 

The path from Lalin followed a stream for several kilometres. 

The route bypassed A Laxe so we were pleasantly surprised to come across this cafe/bar north of A Laxe, and just had to stop - they have been very rare.

Our second breakfast. We didn't really need it but after walking more than 500 kilometres, over 300 of them in Spain,  this was the first time we have seen tortilla - our first since walking the Camino Francés in 2019.

We are always amazed at how the camino paths go past people's front doors etc.

This puddle was too deep, and too long, to walk through so we walked along the top of the stone fence. It looks easy enough but it really wasn't!

Looking up at a very high rail bridge... 

...and walking under one of its arches. 

The 912 bridge, Ponte Taboada, with it's single pointed arch. It was built to replace an earlier Roman bridge across the Rio Deza.

These characters were very wet and bedraggled. 

The 12th century Church of Santiago 

Camino shells on the door. 

Santiago himself. 

Walking into Salleda. 

First stop was at a pasteleria - most of his goods had already been sold.

The first Tarte de Santiago we have seen. 

Camino Invierno - Day 13

17 September 2023

Rodeiro to Lalin - 23 kms

Today's walk was very straightforward, mostly on tracks or narrow country roads with short stages on more major roads. It was through farmland and past, or through, small farming communities, and unlike other days, there were no major ascents or descents, just constant undulations. 

What did make today more of a challenge was that, apart from an hour or so, it rained heavily, and we had high wind all day, with strong gusts every now and then which must have made us look like a couple of drunks weaving our way along. 

The paths between farm buildings were awash with cowmuck, reminiscent of the muck drain on the farm at Roto-o-Rangi, and smelt like a cross between poorly cleaned piggeries and ripe silage.

I was thankful to be walking though as I tripped on uneven pavement when leaving our accommodation this morning and, with the weight of my pack, I landed heavily on my left knee and my forehead. I have a couple of bruises but it could have been a lot worse, especially if I had landed on my glasses.

Because of the rain, we didn't have any stops all day. Also we wanted to get to the pilgrim support shop un Lalin before 2pm when it closed for the afternoon. We hadn't been able to get any of the required stamps for our creditentials as we didn't pass through any villages where we may have been able to get one. I knew that Daniel, the who mans the pilgrim shop, gave stamps. We arrived in Lalin twenty past two and found the shop still open with Daniel busy stamping credentials for other pilgrims. 

The photos have uploaded in reverse order once again - scroll up from the bottom. 

Daniel took this photo.

The finished stamps. 

Such a lovely man. 

He gave us four each.

Daniel's stamps are a work of art. 

Finally arriving at the pilgrim shop.

In Lalin 

It seemed to take forever to get to Lalin. 

Me looking very glamorous. 

...but the rain returned for the rest of the day. 

...there were even shadows. 

We had a wee break in the rain when the sun tried to make an appearance. 

The Church of San Xiao de Pedroso in Eirexe de Pedroso.

These family plots in Eirexe de Pedroso face out on to the streets which is very unusual. 

This windmill was working overtime. 

The open muck drain we had to walk through. I couldn't photograph the worst of it as I was busy navigating my way through the mess.

This flag was being whipped every which way.

The top of this tree landed on the path ahead of us.

We had be wary walking beneath trees as all sorts of debris were flying about, from leaves and twigs to pieces of branches. 

Leaving Rodeiro after my mishap.