Camino Invierno - Day 15

19 October 2023

Silleda to Ponte Ulla - 21 kms

We set off in a storm this morning. Last night and in the early hours of this morning we listened to the wind howling and the rain beating against our windows of our third storey accommodation, and the forecast was for today was for very heavy rain. 

We pulled out all our wet weather gear for the first time - rain jacket and rain pants as well as our ponchos - ready for what we had to step out into. And it was stormy when we set off from Silleda. 

We left half an hour or so later than we usually do but, even so, it was darker than other mornings and the rain was heavy. 

We saw several other pilgrims struggling along in the storm wearing various rain gear - one chap had a small raincoat over his backpack, another raincoat that he tried to wear on his front but it kept slipping off his arms while he struggled with a very broken umbrella which kept turning inside out in the wind. 

As we walked though, the rain started to ease and after three hours or so it more or less stopped. At one stage the sun even made a brief appearance.  

There was only one town on today's route, about a third of the way into the walk - Bandeira - where we stopped at a pasteleria and had a hot drink and a tasty treat. 

We walked through farming areas for the first part of the walk then through stands of trees - many of them eucalyptus trees.

Altogether we dropped about 400 metres in elevation in spite of having a few climbs. The last 2 or 3 kilometres descended very steeply down to Ponte Ulla and our knees and feet certainly felt it. 

There's only one place open for meals in Ponte Ulla and that shut at 5 pm so we more or less went straight there and had a good meal, then we did a bit of a supermarket shop so we have some things to nibble on later, as well as something to eat before setting off tomorrow. 

We're not far from Santiago de Compostela now - about 21 kilometres - and we're going to break that into two short days. 

It's hard to believe that we have nearly completed our three chemin/camino routes. 

I couldn't take any photos during the very heavy rain.

The wet stones made walking quite hazardous at times. 

Taking shelter for a while. 

This underpass had scallop shells and Cruz de Santiago - St James crosses - along both sides but, sadly, they all had graffiti.

No pilgrims sat and lingered today - all had heads down walking as fast as they could. 

This tree was like a creature in the woods. 

Me looking very weighted down. 

A small settlement we walked through. 

Tree felling was being carried out with the logs being stacked on the road side - quite small logs. 

We are so blinkered when we have our hoods up - it's so good when the rain ceases as we can see properly again. 

The hydrangeas along the way have been very beautiful...

...as have the dahlias and roses. 

On our way down to Ponte Ulla. 

The bridge at Ponte Ulla.

The bridge into 'town' - Ponte Ulla is a small settlement but does have one cafe/bar and a supermarket. 

The rio Ulla. 

Jeff crossing the bridge. 

Camino art on a underpass in Ponte Ulla. 

Camino Invierno - Day 14

18 October 2023

Lalin to Salleda - 16 kms

We've had a lovely day. The walk out of Lalin was alongside a small stream for several kilometres and before long we were north of A Laxe. This is where the Camino Invierno joins with the Camino Sanabrés which starts east and south of the Invierno. 

Many pilgrims who walk the Via de la Plata from Seville finish on the Sanabrés, so with the three camino routes coming together we can expect to see many more pilgrims now. Already, today, we've seen four - it's been at least ten days since we saw others walking. 

The heavy rain that had been forecast didn't arrive but we did need to wear our ponchos, or have them draped over our packs for when needed, as quick showers would flick over every so often. 

Much of the route today was along tree-lined paths. The highlights were the bridge, Ponte de Taboada, built in 912, and the nearby 12th century Church of Santiago. 

Leaving Lalin 

The path from Lalin followed a stream for several kilometres. 

The route bypassed A Laxe so we were pleasantly surprised to come across this cafe/bar north of A Laxe, and just had to stop - they have been very rare.

Our second breakfast. We didn't really need it but after walking more than 500 kilometres, over 300 of them in Spain,  this was the first time we have seen tortilla - our first since walking the Camino Francés in 2019.

We are always amazed at how the camino paths go past people's front doors etc.

This puddle was too deep, and too long, to walk through so we walked along the top of the stone fence. It looks easy enough but it really wasn't!

Looking up at a very high rail bridge... 

...and walking under one of its arches. 

The 912 bridge, Ponte Taboada, with it's single pointed arch. It was built to replace an earlier Roman bridge across the Rio Deza.

These characters were very wet and bedraggled. 

The 12th century Church of Santiago 

Camino shells on the door. 

Santiago himself. 

Walking into Salleda. 

First stop was at a pasteleria - most of his goods had already been sold.

The first Tarte de Santiago we have seen.