Camino Natural Via de la Plata

3 November 2023

Alba de Tormes to Salamanca - 25 kms

Today was an extension of our Caminos Teresianos. While we could have taken a bus to Salamanca for a few Euros we decided that we would walk on the Camino Natural Via de la Plata, thereby extending our Caminos Teresianos for another day.

The path we walked on was a disused rail trail, much like the Otago Rail Trail, which took us from Alba de Tormes to the outskirts of Salamanca, through countryside which St Teresa would have travelled through. 

It was a hard walk. The trail itself is easy with gentle gradients, but what made it hard was the weather - constant strong, side-on, wind carrying very cold needles of rain. 

We walked through farmland and massive areas of holm oaks which were large pig rearing stations. It is first time we've seen pigs - large dark skinned Iberian pigs - grazing beneath the trees, eating the acorns - apparently this results in great hams.

One point of interest, especially to Jeff, was that we walked through, or past, Los Arapiles - two hills on which the Battle of Arapiles was carried out 22 July 1812. 

The British and their allies - the Spanish, Portuguese and Germans - led by the Duke of Wellington, had their artillery on Lesser Arapiles with their troops amassed where we stood on the trail, and Napoleon's French troops had their artillery on Greater Arapiles with their troops behind. Wellington's troops won. More than 100,000 soldiers on both sides took part in the battle. 

It was very easy for us to imagine the fierce fighting, and the noise of the battle, as we were experiencing our own battle - only ours was against extreme winds, stronger than before, and heavy sharp cold rain. The roar of the battle was replaced by the roar of the wind. Visibility was poor, otherwise we would have climbed the hill to see the battle monument.  

In short time after leaving the battle site though, the rain stopped - but not the wind. We struggled the whole way to Salamanca. Our walk was invigorating but, at same time, very wearying. We were happy with our decision to walk though. 

The Camino Natural Via de la Plata trail stopped at the outskirts of Salamanca and we still had several kilometres to walk into the centre.

Jeff walking through Santa Teresa Plaza, leaving Alba de Tormes. 

It was cold.

A statue of St Teresa outside the Basilica de Santa Teresa. The build started in the 1898 but has never progressed far. It was stopped during WWI and later due to the lack of finance and it looks as though it hasn't been touched for many years. 

Walking across the rio Tormes. 

Looking back to Alba de Tormes 

And off we went on the Camino Natural Via de la Plata.

 

The wind made for hard work the whole way. 

At one stage the sun almost broke through bit not for long. 

Me looking my best - wearing my buff for the first time. Both of us wore our wind and rainproof gloves over our possum merino gloves for the first time too. They were needed!

Iberian pigs among the holm oaks. 

One of the pig stations. 

Graffiti exists everywhere. 

Another huge pig station.

Jeff reading one of the many information boards along the way. 

Los Arapiles where the Battle of Arapiles was carried out. 

A plaque in Alba de Tormes about the battle.

Standing where the British and their allies were amassed. Jeff said to smile but this was all I could muster. It was bitterly cold and wet and the wind was howling. Note my overgloves - they were brilliant. 

This was taken not far from Los Arapiles. The rain had stopped - for a while - but not the wind. The very outer suburbs of Salamanca came into view but we still had 10 to 11 kilometres to walk.

Finally we could see the cathedral spires - we had almost an hour and a half of walking from here with the wind making very slow going. 

And on we went. 

At long last we were almost in the city centre. 

And a few random photos taken an hour or so later while on our way to a supermarket:

Alba de Tormes

November 2, 2023

Another quiet day in Alba de Tormes. This morning we visited the Church of the Annunciation - part of the Madres Carmelitas Descalzas Convent complex - with St Teresa's tomb above the altar. 

The rest of the day was spent doing some basic food shopping and having an explore of the town - although it's not a town as in New Zealand as there isn't a main street with shops. Here the shops are dotted among other buildings in many different streets. A pharmacy in one street, a bookshop in another etc. 

It's been a cold day and when we were out walking this afternoon we got caught in a sudden downpour.

The Church of Annunciation 

Tha entrance of the Madres Carmelitas Descalzas Convent - part of the same building as the church. St Teresa founded the Convent in 1571.

The main altar in the church. 

St Teresa's tomb above the altar. 

Random photos from the rest of the day:

We poked our noses into this bookshop. It would have been great if only we could read Spanish.

Of course we had to pop into a pasteleria. 

Candied St Teresa almonds are a specialty of this area. 

We were enjoying our walk along the Rio Tormes until we got caught in the sudden downpour. 

It was a good walk until the rain sent us racing for cover. 

Alba de Tormes

November 1, 2023

It seems that the days we don't walk are more tiring than those when we do, so we've had a quiet day in Alba de Tormes today.

We went back to the Museo Teresiana and bought Alba cards. Most museums, and churches, have an entrance fee which add up quite quickly but by buying the card at a reasonable price we have free access for 48 hours. The cards are more economical. 

Having bought the Alba cards at the Museo Teresiana it was the first place we visited. As well as the museum to St Teresa we also had access to San Juan de la Cruz Church, St John of the Cross, which is now houses an exhibition rich in religious art as well as artifacts about both saints. 

From there we went to the Carmelite Museum - it was here that we were able to view the tomb of St Teresa. It can be seen above the main altar of the Church of the Annunciation but from the Carmelite Museum side we can viewed very closely. 

Later in the day we went to see the remaining tower of the Castillo de los Duques de Alba, which dates remaining to the 12th century. The castle itself is now in ruins. We were able to go up into the tower which gave great views out over Alba de Tormes and the surrounding countryside. 

St John of the Cross Church. It at present holds the exhibition - access was through the Museo Teresiana. 

Some photos taken in the Museo Teresiana:

The tomb of St Teresa and some photos of the room it can be viewed from in the Carmelite Museum:

The tomb of St Teresa 

The remaining tower of the Castillo de los Duques de Alba:

It's walls were very thick - around 3 meters or more in depth. 

One room was rich in frescoes painted between 1567 and 1571:

The ceiling of the fresco room:

Vews of Alba de Tormes from the tower:

Other photos of our day in Alba de Tormes:

St John the Cross Church 

The Plaza Mayor

Jeff coming out of a pasteleria with some tasty treats. He had to queue for quite a while as it was a very popular shop.

The Church of Santiago.

 

A couple of random street shots: