Camino Baztan - Day 2

26 September 2023

Espelette, France, to Urdax, Spain - 14 km

Au revoir France, merci pour tout.

Today we walked from France to Spain. We left our accommodation around 7.30 am and made our way directly to the boulangerie to get our daily fix of pain aux raisins. They are so good, there's nothing better than one straight from the oven. 

Just as we did when walking into Espelette, we found our own way to rejoin the camino. Once back on the camino the path took us up into the hills on dirt tracks then steeply down to Ainhoa - which is listed as one of France's most beautiful villages. It is beautiful but, like Espelette, it was bustling with tourists. 

It wasn't long after leaving Ainhoa that we were at the border of France and Spain. Unlike crossing into Spain on the Camino Frances, which is up in the mountains with nothing around for miles, this crossing was an absolute nightmare of massive shopping centres, service stations and restaurants. It was a real assault to the senses! I had read that the French cross the border to take advantage of the cheaper prices in Spain, hence all the businesses and service stations etc.  

We were pleased to leave it all behind and take the path through the trees to Urdax. Where we're staying in the albergue. The albergue is in the top floor of the 9th century San Salvador Monastery - a former pilgrims' hospital. Initially it looked as though we would be the only ones here tonight but another couple has just checked in. The family has grown to 12 of us here for the night. 

The hospitalero is going to provide our dinner and will leave breakfast things for us for the morning. Urdax is a very peaceful old village, perfect after the busyness in both Espelette and Ainhoa, and the shocking mess of buildings,  shops and traffic that stretched several kilometres from the border.

The weather was good for walking as, although it was still in the mid 20°s there was a lot of cloud cover so we didn't have the sun baking down on us.

We encountered several snakes on the Chemin du Piémont Pyrénéen and today Jeff had the first encounter with a snake on the  Camino Baztan when he nearly stood one. Fortunately, so far, they have moved away quickly. 

It seems so strange to be in Spain now. France was wonderful and I was just getting used to speaking in French, suddenly I have had to switch to Spanish. My French was limited enough but my Spanish is more so.

On our way to the boulangerie to buy our pain aux raisins before leaving Espelette 

As Espelette isn't on the camino route we had to find our own way out.

On the camino again. 

We passed patches of Espelette peppers again. 

We stopped a wee way out of Espelette to eat our pain aux raisins. We miss them already. 

Up into the hills. 

Some of the last of the French camino signs.

We tried chatting with these two but we couldn't understand their accents. 

Coming into Ainhoa. 

The Church of Notre-Dame of the Assumption in Ainhoa. 

Inside the church. 

Ainhoa was beautiful but so full of tourists. 

Leaving Ainhoa. 

Nearing the French-Spainish border.

The now unused French border post. 

I didn't take any photos of the mess of shops, cafés, service stations or traffic we had to walk through once we crossed the border. It was so lovely to be back in peaceful surroundings.

As soon as we entered Spain the yellow arrows appeared again.

On the way to Urdax. 

Waiting at the albergue entrance of the old Monastery for the hospitalero to arrive to check us in. 

Looking down to thr inner courtyard of the Monastery from the albergue windows on the top floor. 

The Monastery 

A couple of photos of Urdax. 

Camino Baztan - Day 1

25 September 2023

Bayonne to Espelette - 23 kms

Today we set out on the second of the three chemin/camino routes we have planned - the Camino Baztan. 

Gerald Kelly, in his 2019 guide for the Baztan, states: The Baztan is a short route, approximately 110 kms, going from Bayonne to Pamplona. 

The Camino del Baztán starts in the south west of France in the city of Bayonne and winds its way almost due south through the French Basque Country into Spain and the Kingdom of Navarra, eventually joining the Camino Francés just before Pamplona. For much of its route it follows the valley of the river Baztán, from which it gets its name.

It is one of the Ways of Saint James used since the 12th century by pilgrims arriving on foot or by boat into Bayonne to cross the formidable barrier of the Pyrenees into Spain on their way to the shrine of the apostle in Santiago de Compostela.

We left our accommodation to start our camino at 7 am, over an hour before sunrise. We knew the day was going to be hot and wanted to make the most of the morning freshness - and it was beautifully fresh, so much so we both had a light fleece on and our rain jackets as well. 

The first 14 or so kilometres of today's walk was on a sealed cycle and pedestrian path along the side of the River Nive. We expected the path to take us through urban areas but once out of Bayonne it became very rural. The path was well used by cyclists, runners and walkers. 

The river pathway ended at Ustaritz, the only town along the way today. We had a short break there and bought some supplies from a boulangerie. After Ustaritz the route was on a very busy road for a few kilometres, the first time we had to dodge traffic. Not very pleasant. Later the route was on a minor roads and tracks. 

The camino goes through Souraïde/Zuraide but we had decided to have our first night in Espelette instead so we found our own way off the path using a track that ran through a wooded area to Espelette. After Ustaritz the day heated up to the high 20s and most of the walk was uphill so we appreciated the shade on this last stretch. 

Along our walk today we crossed paths several times with three French pilgrims. 

Espelette, a tourist town bustling with people, is famous for its chili peppers, piment d'Espelette - we walked past acres of peppers, their long rows laid out much like the vineyards in Marlborough. 

We completed our day with a wonderful Basque dinner - a bit of a surprise package as we couldn't read the menu. All part of the fun. 

This is our last night in France, tomorrow we cross the border into Spain. We arrived in Paris three weeks ago and have loved every moment of it. We will miss France. 

Leaving our accommodation in Bayonne. 

Walking along the bank of the River Nive. 

Our first sign for the Camino Baztan. 

Goodbye Bayonne, we loved our visit. 

The River Nive. 

A Pappy house - it was a hen house. At least Pappy would have lots of eggs.

A chap fishing in the River Nive. 

Rows of Espelette peppers. 

Coming into Ustaritz. 

At the boulangerie in Ustaritz. 

Ustaritz 

St Vincent Church, Ustaritz. 

St Vincent Church. 

Chateau Lota jaurega - next to St Vincent Church, Ustaritz. 

Finally, the path leaves the sealed roads behind. 

The French chap took this photo of us.

I was really feeling the sun and heat by now.

The closer we got to Espelette the more settlements we looked down on. 

The path goes on. 

...and on

The track into Espelette passed under chestnut trees.

A wee bridge we crossed over as we entered Espelette. 

Espelette is full of peppers - Piment d'Espelette.

Basque fabrics are so bright. 

The remains of an old castle in Espelette - Château des Barons d'Espeleta.

Espelette 

Espelette