Kiwi Pilgrims

Friday, October 13, 2023

Camino Invierno - Day 9

13 October 2023

Monforte de Lemos to Vilariño - 16 kms

This morning we were greeted with rain, the first rain we've had. It wasn't heavy rain though, just light drizzle.

We had an amazing breakfast at the Parador and, even better, it was free as first time guests at a Parador since signing up as Amigos de Paradores - Friends of Paradors.

When we stepped out of the Parador's doors we were hit by a strong wet wind. Out came our brand new blue ponchos and off we went.

The drizzle lasted about 4 hours then the sun almost made an appearance but was quickly hidden by cloud. Walking was quite pleasant as we didn't have the heat we had been having and once the drizzle stopped there was a lovely breeze.

Today's walk was mostly uphill with just a small dip now and then. The route was on sealed roads for several kilometres before changing to tree-lined paths.

We passed through several small farming communities and a couple of little settlements but that was all, there weren't any towns. We had one short break only.

Tonight we're off route a wee way, staying in a small but busy bar restaurant with accommodation. It's in the edge of the very small settlement Fion, surrounded by farms.

They are used to pilgrims here as we were told that our dinner will be early at 8pm, well before their usual serving time - only they forgot about us and we didn't get to eat until after 9pm, much too late.

Leaving the Parador sporting our fabulous ponchos.

On our way down to the town of Monforte de Lemos.

Monforte de Lemos roof tops.

We walked through Porta da Alcazaba, a 13th century gateway in the fortress walls.

In Monforte de Lemos

We walked out of Monforte de Lemos over Ponte Vella, a medieval bridge crossing the Rio Cabe.

The Rio Cabe

Out into the country

The route was all through farming country.

The sun made a brief appearance

...and the ponchos came off.

We had our brief snack stop here, we didn't have lunch.

Nearly at the end of today's walk.

Our stop for the night.

Torre Vilariño - a small but busy bar and restaurant. It was full of customers when we arrived at 3.20. We had been walking for six hours.

Thursday, October 12, 2023

Camino Invierno - Day 8

12 October 2023

A Labrada to Monforte de Lemos - 21 kms

We throughly enjoyed today. We retraced our way back to the camino from our pensíon and immediately started to climb up out of the Lor Valley reaching quite a height.

We soon left the pine forest behind and from then on the camino path was through farmland. We went through a couple of small settlements before descending down to A Pobra de Brollón, the only town of the day before arriving in Monforte de Lemos.

Just as we entered A Pobra de Brollón we came across a panederia van selling bread to locals at their doorsteps. We quickly asked if we could buy a loaf which he was very happy to sell us. We bought a long bread stick, still warm from the oven. We then found a bar and stopped for a colacao. We were very surprised to come across both as today is the National Day of Spain and we expected everything to be shut.

From A Pobra de Brolón we had another climb and then descended, still through farmland, to Monforte de Lemos to where we're staying in the Parador de Monforte de Lemos, a former 15th century monastery which was built to replace the 10th monastery which was destroyed during the war of religions.

We have a junior suite which is fantastic, pure luxury. If this is a junior suite I wonder what the others are like. We decided to have a bit of fun and treat ourselves.

The Paradors are state-run hotels, 97 in total, consisting of castles, monasteries, fortresses, manor houses, palaces as well as modern buildings in spectacular nature settings.

The hilltop of Monforte was a Roman fortress which was destroyed by the Moors in the 8th century. It was restarted by the Benedictines in the 9th century. All that remains of the original fortress is a tower and some of the fortress walls.

Note: I have added yesterday's photos.