Camino Invierno - Day 12

16 September 2023

Vilaseco to Rodeiro - 24 kms

Today was a big day in many ways. Our very genial host at Vilaseco advised us not to take the route up to Monte Faro as we wouldn't have any views today - it wasn't raining this morning but cloud cover was low.

We had every intention of taking his advice but we were so busy chatting that we didn't immediately notice that we had taken that route, we didn't see signs for the alternative road route. 

We set out from our accommodation wearing our ponchos as although it wasn't raining, we knew it could start at any time. Soon after we set off we were in the settlement of Vilaseco where we found an open bar and, needing 2 stamps a day, we went in and bought a couple of cans of Aquarius, a type of energy drink, and got our first stamp of the day. 

It was after that that we inadvertently took the mountain route. By the time we realised we were on our way up we had already gone quite a way so we decided to keep going. We were walking in low cloud but the rain still held off. The 5 kilometre climb up was continuous, gaining nearly 600m in height to 1,150m.

Just as we neared the top it started to rain and it continued for the rest of the day with just a couple of breaks. The wind was strong at the top too. 

We left the camino path to see the Ermita de Nosa Senora - a hermitage of Our Lady of Faro - built in 1632. We couldn't linger as we cooling down too quickly. 

We weren't sure just where to rejoin the camino and found ourselves walking down a grassy path with crosses all the way down it - obviously Stations of the Cross. From there we set off in the wrong direction. Here we were, two septuagenarians, wandering around in the mists of the mountain. After studying our map app we worked it out in the end and we we were on our way down. 

The route down took us past long lines of giant wind turbines. We could hear them cutting through air but, for the most part, they were lost in the mists of the clouds. It wasn't until we were quite a way down that we saw a couple of them.

At 3.15pm, after more than six hours of walking without a break, we found a small bar in the settlement of A Feira so in we went. It was very busy with men at the bar and filling most of the tables, talking very loudly, and eating what, to us hungry Kiwis, looked like fabulous food - anything would have looked good by that stage.

We managed, with quite a bit of language difficulties, to order some of the same. It was a most welcome break. Then it was packs and ponchos on again and off in the rain for the last two kilometres into Rodeiro, only to find that our hostel/albergue was way off route and took some finding. 

Although it was a long day, and mostly in rain, we thoroughly enjoyed everything.

The photos have uploaded in reverse order - scroll up from the bottom. 

The town hall in  Rodeiro. 

Finally coming in to Rodeiro, our stop for the day. 

This was a mobile shop selling chilled and frozen foods - meat, chicken pieces, fruit, yoghurt, meals - and more.

The bar at A Feira where we had our late lunch. 

Galician greens. The leaves of these amazing plants, some as tall as 2 metres or more, are used in Caldo Galicia - Galician soup. We had a bowl of this fantastic soup as part of our pilgrim dinner last night. 

Coming into A Feira

A tall marker of some sort. 

A church and cemetery in the middle of nowhere. 

Finally we could see that we were back in relative civilisation. 

Jeff standing near the base of one of the turbines. 

The first wind turbine we were able to see 

We eventually walked down the way of the crosses.

An outside altar opposite the Ermita - Jeff was trying to find the path.

Detail on the cross 

An old cross in front of it Ermita 

Ermita de Nosa Senora

The Ermita de Nosa Senora - Jeff trying to look in a window. 

A statue of Mary on our way up to the Ermita 

In the clouds. 

An old monument but we don't know it's story.

On the mountain path.

Another cross/shrine. 

The bar in Vilaseco where we got our first stamp of the day. 

A cross on the roadside.

Setting out in a strong wind and prepared for rain.
 

Camino Invierno - Day 12h

15 September 2023

Chantada to Vilaseco - 7 kms

We had a semi-restday today. We spent this morning in Chantada as we had such a short walk to tonight's accommodation near Vilaseco. 

As we didn't need to check out of our accommodation in Chantada until midday, it was a lovely break from our usual morning rush. We did a supermarket shop last night knowing that they would be shut today, Sunday, so enjoyed a lazy breakfast with the spoils of our shopping. 

I had been trying to find out Mass times for today but didn't have any luck looking online so we decided we would check out the small old Church of Santa Mariña we saw when we walked in yesterday, only it was still locked. 

We wandered on a wee while then walked back on another street and spotted what looked like another, more modern, church not far from the back of the old one. It was locked too but as we stood there looking a man crossed the road walking towards the church. When he saw us he asked if we were peregrinos and used sign language to ask if we wanted a stamp. He indicated to follow him. He unlocked the church, switched on some lights then took us to the sacristy and stamped our credentials. I asked him what time Mass was. He had limited English and my Spanish is almost nonexistent but he managed to tell us that Masses were at 11 and 12. He then indicated that we should look around in the church and wished us Buen camino. 

It was very modern compared to the ages of most Spanish churches but we have no idea when it was built. It was beautiful with stunning stained glass windows and other artefacts. 

We left the church and had a hot drink for morning tea and bought some tasty treats from a panaderia which we took back to our accommodation to enjoy as it was still quite early. 

We did a final pack of our backpacks and left our accommodation just before 12 and walked to the church for Mass - this newer church is called the Church of Santa Mariña, the same as the old one. And the priest who said Mass was the chap who opened the church earlier and gave us our stamps. He recognised us too and gave us big grins. 

When we came out of church it was raining, not heavy but heavy enough to need raincoats. We were standing huddled under some street umbrellas wondering where we could find some early lunch - the Spanish don't have lunch until nearer 3 pm - when a man approached us wanting to know if he could direct us somewhere. With his help we went to a nearby bar/restaurant and after a simple but good lunch we were on our way - wearing our ponchos. By then the rain had settled to a light drizzle and about half way through our short walk it stopped altogether. 

We're in the middle of nowhere tonight, at least it feels like that. It's in the country with no houses in sight. We've been told that dinner is at 8.30pm and breakfast will be at 8am. That suits us as it's not light enough to start walking until nearly 8.30. 

We have a decision to make tomorrow -  to go on the original camino route up and over Monte Faro, which is what we would prefer, or to walk an alternative road route which sidles around the mountain - Brierleys guidebook suggests taking the road variant if the weather isn't good. Rain is forecast for the rest of our camino. 

We are now less than 100 kilometres to Santiago de Compostela. We had been keeping an eye on the mojones, watching them count the kilometres down expecting to have one marking the 100 kilometres distance as on the Camino Francés but, unless we both missed it which is unlikely, there wasn't a special one. They went from 100.258 to 99.278 kms. 

The modern Church of Santa Mariña 

After Mass the priest gathered children for what looked like a first holy communion preparation lesson. 

This piece is made entirely by small tiles. 

Unusual Stations of the Cross 

Setting off from Chantada in the early afternoon.

Jeff stepping it out.

After seeing our first horreo yesterday, we saw several today.

Art on a farm building. We'd not seen that before. 

An old cross on the way.

100.258 kilometres to Santiago de Compostela 

When the rain stopped completely we left our ponchos draped over our backpacks ready to pop on again if needed. 

Suddenly it was 99.278 kilometres to Santiago, no special 100 km marker!

My poncho, which was draped over the back of my pack, looks like a superhero cape 😁

Cattle were housed in this shed. We've seen so few in paddocks that we think that most be in sheds.

Our accommodation place for the night.