Camino Invierno - Day 17

21 October 2023

Gandara to Santiago de Compostela - 10 kms

Today we walked into Santiago de Compostela. After walking nearly 550 kilometres, on three different chemin/camino routes, our pilgrimage has ended.

We had such a good night last night. The albergue we stayed in was so good and our host, Carmen, was wonderful - so caring and kind. She treated us as though we were her family, plus she was very excited as we were her first New Zealanders. She hugged and kissed both of us goodbye this morning. 

Early this morning the sky was clear and bright with stars. It was going to be a wonderful day to complete our walk. 

After saying goodbye to Carmen, we set off full of excitement, anticipation and joy - with all our rain gear packed away. A few kilometres down the road the heavens opened up and we were scrambling for shelter to put our ponchos on - it didn't last long though.

Our walk into Santiago was mostly rural, or through forest areas, until very close to the city, only the last couple of kilometres were through streets. We stopped at a restaurant about five kilometres out of Santiago to have a hot drink and get our first stamp of the day. We called in to a pharmacy to get our second stamp!

The camino markers seemed to stop before we reached the cathedral and we ended up walking down through the archway where the Camino Francés enters the Prazo do Obradoiro - the plaza in front of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela. 

A piper was playing as we walked down the steps and around into the plaza. We weren't sure how we would feel about arriving at the cathedral for a second time, we wondered if the specialness that we experienced the first time would be lost ...but it wasn't. We were filled with excitement, a sense of achievement, joy and gratitude. It was a wonderful moment, incredibly special. 

And the plaza was busy. People everywhere - hugging each other, some were chanting or singing, many were trying to get photos, others were sitting or standing quietly absorbing the moment, and we were amongst them all. We spoke with a couple of other pilgrims who we had met along the way. The rain had long cleared and the sky was blue - but then, without any warning, there was another downpour, sending every one seeking shelter.

We made our way to the pilgrims' office with our correctly stamped credentials and got our Compostelas. 

The system of receiving compostelas has completely changed since we received our first one in 2019. It is now much more automated. We registered yesterday and received a QR code which we presented to an official at the pilgrim office door. We were allocated a number - mine was 373 and Jeff's was 374. In very short time we had our compostelas. The whole operation is very slick. The names on the certificates are no longer handwritten but that doesn't make them any the less special. 

Our accommodation is in Rua das Hortas, just down from the cathedral, not far from where we stayed four years ago. 

We went to 7.30 pm Mass. We had been told that there would be a queue to go into the cathedral for the pilgrims' Mass.  I'm not sure if this is the case for all four of the pilgrims Masses held each day or just the midday one. We went very early and while we waited for Mass we reflected on all we had seen and experienced. 

Seven priests said Mass - at least four of them were pilgrims. One wore hiking boots and another was in his hiking sandals. One of the Sisters sang - so beautifully. When the Mass ended a pilgrim blessing was given in English. 

Looking back at our albergue and the bar next door where we were served fantastic meals.

On our way to Santiago - rain gear packed away 

...then came a sudden downpour. 

Puddle jumping again. 

Many of the properties had camino shells or signs. 

It was a very pretty walk into the city. 

The kilometres seemed to melt away 

Nearly in the city centre and a tractor appeared 

It still looked rural but infact it was only a kilometre or two from city streets. 

Then suddenly we had our first glimpse of the cathedral. 

About to walk down through the archway to Prazo do Obradoiro, in front of the Cathedral. 

It was special to have piper playing as we walked in.

And then we were there.

Our shoes served us very well ...as did our feet.

Walking down to the pilgrims office in heavy rain.

Ponchos were out again!

Our compostelas with our names in Latin. 

And our distance certificates.

The cathedral tonight after Mass.

Today 1489 pilgrims arrived - we were two of them. 

Camino Invierno - Day 16

20 October 2023

Ponte Ulla to Gandara - 11 kms

We were uncertain what weather we would have today as different weather apps gave different forecasts. Rain threatened, and it was quite cool, but by afternoon the sun broke through. 

As we weren't walking far we had a slow start to the day, going for a hot drink at the nearby bar before leaving Ponte Ulla. 

Just as we had a long steep descent down into Ponte Ulla, we had a long ascent to start with. Most of the walk was through forest areas. 

After a couple of hours we left the camino path to find a bar to have another hot drink but mainly to get the first  of the two required stamps in our credentials for today - we got the second one at our albergue. We found quite a good track from the bar directly to the albergue where we're staying tonight. 

Albergue Reina Lupa is a very small albergue, quite new. It's one of the best, if not the best, that we have stayed in and the host family is lovely. They have a bar/restaurant next door. 

Tomorrow, after walking around 550 kilometres, we have just 10 kilometres to walk into Santiago. It's hard to believe. 

There is something so special about walking on every day, day after day. Each day is different and brings something new. Each day has been a gift. 

Leaving Ponte Ulla this morning. It was quite cool and rain was threatening. 

Most of today's walk was through forests. 

Fuente Santiago, a 17th century water font for pilgrims. 

Ermita Santiago,  also 17th century. 

A modern pilgrim. 

We went off the camino route in search of a bar or café where we could have something hot to drink and get a stamp in our credential. 

Several men were in the restaurant/bar we stopped at - these two in the background were playing cards.

We didn't rejoin the camino path but found our own way to our albergue walking a lovely quiet track. 

Nearing our stop for the day.

Being shown to the albergue Reina Lupa. Such a great albergue. 

When we finished our late lunch Carmen, the albergue and bar owner, gave us these biscuits, caprichos de Santiago, to have with our hot chocolate drinks. They are like crispy almond meringues.