Santiago de Compostela to Ávila

25 October 2023

We have had a change of plans. We were going to have one more day in Santiago but this morning we took a train to Madrid then another one on to Ávila, arriving here late this afternoon. 

We enjoyed both legs of our train journeys although we didn't expect to pass through so many tunnels south of Ourense. Further on we travelled through extensive plains, part of the Meseta, then we were back in the hills north of Madrid. 

The countryside on our trip from Madrid to Ávila was fascinating. Nothing at all like what either of us expected. It was hilly, very rocky in places, with huge areas of stocky/shrubby trees, although there was green farmland in amongst it. We had views out to hills beyond hills. Just stunning. 

The train climbed all the way. Madrid sits at 657m and Ávila at 1132m.

We are deep in St Teresa of Ávila country of course. We are researching a short pilgrimage route, roughly 110 kms, called Ruta Teresiana de la Cuna al Sepulcro - Path of St Teresa, from the Cradle to the Grave. It starts here in Ávila, where she was born, and finishes in Alba de Tormes, where she died.

We've a bit of sorting out tomorrow at the Visitors Centre before we decide if we will walk it or not.

After checking in at our accommodation we went to find a supermarket and on the way we came across part of the old city wall. It is simply stunning. We will spend more time exploring it tomorrow or Friday. 

Leaving our street in Santiago, Rúa das Hortas.

Just off Rúa das Hortas, on our way to the train station, we walked past these allotments.

The allotments are so close to the cathedral - it's spires can be seen in the background.

Saying goodbye to the two Marias. 

In Ávila. As always when we arrive in a new town, the challenge is to find our accommodation. 

Nearly at our accommodation. 

A view out to the hills while on our way to the supermarket. 

Then we found the wall. Here it is built directly on rocks.

One of the nine gates.

Later we found a pasteleria and of course had to go in:

A couple of photos taken on our way back to our accommodation:

Santiago de Compostela

23 & 24 October 2023

We've had two good days in Santiago. 

Yesterday we went to the English Mass in the small chapel in the Pilgrims Office. Just as when we were here four years ago, Fr Manny Domingo said Mass - he has a permanent ministry at the chapel. His Masses are very special, very pilgrim oriented. He spoke about the meaning of pilgrimage, and all that we gain and learn from them, and how we could take that home. 

Before Mass started Fr Manny asked us all to introduce ourselves and to say what camino routes we had walked. There were people from the UK, Ireland, the US, Canada, the Philippines, Australia and us two Kiwis. One of the pilgrims was a Filipino priest and another was an American deacon. They both took part in the Mass.

After Mass yesterday we spent time in Alameda Park. 

Today we returned to the cathedral for Mass. When we went on Saturday night one of the Sisters sang, today a man sang. Both were beautiful but whereas the Sister's voice was light and clear, the man singing was very commanding and powerful. His voice filled the cathedral. 

When we came out of Mass it was raining heavily. We decided to go the markets and just as we were deciding how to get there quickly in the heavy rain Fr Manny walked up to us and showed us the way. He's such a lovely man. 

Late this afternoon we went for a peaceful walk along the rio Sarela - just a block or two away from the cathedral area which is always busy with pilgrims and tourists alike. 

Some random photos of the last two days: 

The cathedral and Praza do Obradoiro very early morning before pilgrims started arriving. 

The altar in the small chapel where the English Masses are said.

A visit to the panaderia is high in importance. 

The cathedral as seen from Alameda Park

and a few photos of the park itself:

The two Marias.

The detail of the main altar in the cathedral is so golden that it's hard to take it all in. The cathedral was closed for restoration when we were here four years ago. 

The statue of St James is prominent behind the altar.

A few random photos from inside the cathedral: 

The botafumeiro wasn't used at either of the Masses we went to. 

Part of the organ pipes. 

A small side altar.

Talking to Fr Manny after Mass in the cathedral. Fr Manny he was one of the many priests who gave communion.

On our way to the market. 

At the market. 

A couple of random street shots:

On our walk along the rio Sarela:

Another view of the cathedral. 

...every night, when the daytime busyness has ended, the Shadow Pilgrim appears.