Camino Baztan - Day 1

25 September 2023

Bayonne to Espelette - 23 kms

Today we set out on the second of the three chemin/camino routes we have planned - the Camino Baztan. 

Gerald Kelly, in his 2019 guide for the Baztan, states: The Baztan is a short route, approximately 110 kms, going from Bayonne to Pamplona. 

The Camino del Baztán starts in the south west of France in the city of Bayonne and winds its way almost due south through the French Basque Country into Spain and the Kingdom of Navarra, eventually joining the Camino Francés just before Pamplona. For much of its route it follows the valley of the river Baztán, from which it gets its name.

It is one of the Ways of Saint James used since the 12th century by pilgrims arriving on foot or by boat into Bayonne to cross the formidable barrier of the Pyrenees into Spain on their way to the shrine of the apostle in Santiago de Compostela.

We left our accommodation to start our camino at 7 am, over an hour before sunrise. We knew the day was going to be hot and wanted to make the most of the morning freshness - and it was beautifully fresh, so much so we both had a light fleece on and our rain jackets as well. 

The first 14 or so kilometres of today's walk was on a sealed cycle and pedestrian path along the side of the River Nive. We expected the path to take us through urban areas but once out of Bayonne it became very rural. The path was well used by cyclists, runners and walkers. 

The river pathway ended at Ustaritz, the only town along the way today. We had a short break there and bought some supplies from a boulangerie. After Ustaritz the route was on a very busy road for a few kilometres, the first time we had to dodge traffic. Not very pleasant. Later the route was on a minor roads and tracks. 

The camino goes through Souraïde/Zuraide but we had decided to have our first night in Espelette instead so we found our own way off the path using a track that ran through a wooded area to Espelette. After Ustaritz the day heated up to the high 20s and most of the walk was uphill so we appreciated the shade on this last stretch. 

Along our walk today we crossed paths several times with three French pilgrims. 

Espelette, a tourist town bustling with people, is famous for its chili peppers, piment d'Espelette - we walked past acres of peppers, their long rows laid out much like the vineyards in Marlborough. 

We completed our day with a wonderful Basque dinner - a bit of a surprise package as we couldn't read the menu. All part of the fun. 

This is our last night in France, tomorrow we cross the border into Spain. We arrived in Paris three weeks ago and have loved every moment of it. We will miss France. 

Leaving our accommodation in Bayonne. 

Walking along the bank of the River Nive. 

Our first sign for the Camino Baztan. 

Goodbye Bayonne, we loved our visit. 

The River Nive. 

A Pappy house - it was a hen house. At least Pappy would have lots of eggs.

A chap fishing in the River Nive. 

Rows of Espelette peppers. 

Coming into Ustaritz. 

At the boulangerie in Ustaritz. 

Ustaritz 

St Vincent Church, Ustaritz. 

St Vincent Church. 

Chateau Lota jaurega - next to St Vincent Church, Ustaritz. 

Finally, the path leaves the sealed roads behind. 

The French chap took this photo of us.

I was really feeling the sun and heat by now.

The closer we got to Espelette the more settlements we looked down on. 

The path goes on. 

...and on

The track into Espelette passed under chestnut trees.

A wee bridge we crossed over as we entered Espelette. 

Espelette is full of peppers - Piment d'Espelette.

Basque fabrics are so bright. 

The remains of an old castle in Espelette - Château des Barons d'Espeleta.

Espelette 

Espelette